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Upcoming Events – October

October 1, 2019 by adminewa Leave a Comment

Fall is officially on our plate and so are exciting events, the impending holiday season, winter steelhead and some of the finest fall fly fishing opportunities WA has to offer. Klickitat, Yakima and the Sound are all on fire and we offer professional experiences to all three so book today and we look forward to seeing you at one or all of the events below.

Bug’s + Brew’s — Women’s Fly Tying Sessions — $25 Each — Follow our women’s Instagram page @ewa_women for updates on other upcoming events.

November 12th: Reverse Spider
December 3rd: Marbou Popsicle (Intermediate)
December 17th: Skagit Mist (Advanced)
January 7th: Skwala Stones
January 21st: Blue Wing Olives

October 22, 2019 — Destination Spotlight — Africa — @ EWA Fly Shop — 7pm — FREE
Our very good friends Rob Scott and Keith Clover from Tourette/African Waters will be in town to present and answer questions about all things fly fishing in Africa. This includes Sudan for GT’s, Tanzania for Tigerfish, Gabon for giant Tarpon and Cameroon for huge Nile Perch. Please join us for an exceptionally informative and entertaining evening!

October 24, 2019 — Get to Know Your NGO — @ EWA Fly Shop — 7pm – FREE
There is a lot going on in our region for the sake of fish, water, land and how they are managed. Come meet each of the NGO’s we work closely with and gain a better idea of who represents what is most important to you and your values. Excited to have TU, Wild Steelhead Coalition, Long Live the Kings, Native Fish Society and Puget SoundKeeper Alliance

Spey School – Learn from our well versed professional staff of guides/instructors the fine craft of spey casting and swinging for steelhead as this is ALL we do! 3 anglers max per school, call to reserve!

Nov. 11, 2019
Dec. 12, 2019
Jan. 17, 2020

Intro to Fly Tying

Nov. 19, 2019

January 24, 2020 — F3T West Seattle — Admiral Theater — $16
This is the season opener to get hyped about this sport and all it encompasses. Filmmakers travel to all corners of the globe to pursue exotic fish like GT’s, Arapaima, Payara, Taimen and even Rainbow Trout! Always a great time tickets available online or at the store.

February 2, 2020 — EWA Spey Day — Snoqualmie River under Fall City Bridge — 9am – 3pm — FREE
The premier spey event in western WA, come cast the latest and greatest in two handed rods and lines with our staff, sales reps and special guests. This is the perfect opportunity to hone your skills, get some one on one instruction or figure out the optimal match of line and rod for the winter season.

February 15 & 16, 2020 — The Fly Fishing Show — Lynwood — $16
We will be attending the show again this year. Great opportunity to hear Dave McCoy talk on Puget Sound and fly fishing around Washington. See his all new photos and insights on how, when, where and with what on some of our most dynamic fisheries.

May 30, 2020 — EWA Fly Fest — @ Location TBD – 9am – 3pm — FREE
Our annual kick off of summer event will be better than ever with more classes including spey casting, more guest speakers and more reps from the industry and of course the guide cook off.

Filed Under: Emerald Water Anglers, Events Tagged With: Africa, African Waters, fly casting instruction, fly fishing events, fly fishing guides, fly fishing schools, Fly Fishing Seattle, fly fishing travel, Klickitat River, Puget sound fly fishing, Sea Run Cutthroat, Seattle Fly Shop, spey casting, steelhead fishing, Tacoma, Tourette Fishing, Women's casting, women's fly fishing, Yakima River

Travel Journal: Bahamas, Abaco Lodge

October 31, 2017 by adminewa Leave a Comment


I was prompted about 16 months ago by a few of my favorite travelers to set up a trip closer to home, something without a 3+ country layover that didn’t take a calendar to chart how long it would take to get to.  I hadn’t been to the Bahamas in over a decade so figured this was as low hanging of fruit as I would hope to find.  Seattle to Atlanta to Marsh Harbor to lodge in about 18 hours…done!

For those who follow me regularly, the posh, exclusive and overly comfortable trips are not the ones I usually choose to travel to for a number of reasons.  For one, they are rarely doing anything new or cutting edge where exploration is a part of the experience.  Secondly, some of these trips tend to have a fishing routine that feels a bit too controlled or forced to fit how they want/need to operate the lodge and lastly they can and usually are pretty expensive.  There you have yet another installation of my optic on fly fishing travel, but sometimes I am surprised to find some eagerness and visionary angling when I least expect it and Abaco was just such a trip!


If you have never been to a Nervous Waters property, you need to go.  There are few details left unattended with regards to your stay at any of the lodges they own or manage around the world and one of which is generally the caliber of manager they have on hand at each lodge.  Our hosts for this trip were Christiaan Pretorious and Lindi Blaauw.  

Both are from South Africa and both have spent considerable time chasing fish if not guiding for them all over the world.  This experience comes in handy for not only managing the guide team but also during story telling around the dinner table or WELL stocked, self serve bar.  

My new growing appreciation is for the incredible level of professionalism “Southies” as I am going to refer to them bring to the guide world.  Have been spending some time with some over the past few years and I mean they are legit.  Christiaan’s demeanor and ability to judge character among people topped by the South African slant on the “English” is just awesome.  Lively conversation about Russia, vodka, naked guides, bears, guns all neatly enveloped into fly fishing make for great stories.  And in case you didn’t know, this sport is all about stories and a few are even about fish.


So to some degree Abaco Lodge falls into more than one of the aforementioned categories however where the surprise landed squarely in my lap was when we killed the engine and coasted up onto a flat and a giant stingray had 3 sizeable permit shadowing it as it cruised the sandy bottom.

I understand when guides freak out about permit, they are notoriously elusive and to say there are finicky is being generous on their behalf.  So I have traveled to this part of the Caribbean with mostly bonefish equipment because while permit are mentioned, few rave about them as a resident fish. They tend to be treated more like a celebrity, so was a bit awe struck when the first ray we encounter is hosting an entourage of permit well over 20 pounds each.  Ok then, game on, here is my VIP pass, I’ll be your huckleberry, let’s do this or whatever you want to say, let’s play ball.  I have thick skin, been denied a few times before so these won’t hurt my feelings too bad.


Our guide Travis Sands, as the boat is gliding to within 15 feet of this ray quietly sneaks Bob’s permit rod out of the rod holder, strips some line off and hands to him.  Boat has stalled in 18 inches of water, fish have moved off about 30-40 feet and Bob makes a very conservative first cast about 15 feet or so to their starboard side, allows for the crab to sink, strips once to clean any slack and then makes one single long strip…please skip next paragraph if you have aversion to 4 letter words, just quoting what was said!

One permit leaves the ray and streaks at Bob’s fly so fast it leaves a V-wake in 2-3 feet of water.  So fast it scares Bob and he is stepping backward on the deck, almost stepping off into bottom of the boat and so fast all I can say is “HOLY CRAP, it ate your fly!”  which sounded more like Holshaterfly because I didn’t have the time to spit it out, I nearly jumped from the boat.  Bob in a knee jerk reaction half strip sets and half lifts his rod, “FK!”  Travis is hyperventilating on the back deck but manages to sputter out, “Quick, get ready to cast again!”


To my utter astonishment, the permit had simply scratched its head wondering where Bob’s crab had disappeared to so quickly and went back to the ray.  Travis makes a couple pushes, the ray turns in our favor and Bob once again presents the same fly with the nearly same result but with more composure and strip sets and we are off to the races! 

Travis is pacing as much as you can on a poling deck, professionally suggesting tactics for playing the fish and about 8-9 minutes later, we are two thirds of our way to a Grand Slam.


Now the thing about a Grand Slam is as far as those at the lodge and many of the locals are aware, there has not been one caught on Abaco proper in a very long time, in fact the term “never” had crept out of some old timer locals mouths.  So it is 11am on the Wednesday of a week long trip and Travis has the Maverick full throttle to the tarpon grounds.  We have 5 hours to make this happen within which we have 1 1/2 hours of boat time included to be back at the lodge by 4pm. 

Now let’s chat about this a bit.  Tarpon are DEFINITELY not spoken of often in these parts.  I didn’t really even bring anything specificly for tarpon, the guides don’t usually even have tarpon flies with them.  As we sprint across the Marls towards the Abaco equivalent of Tarponville I am digging through the myriad of flies in search of something and voila, an zip lock with a few Silver King flies.  Tie on some hefty leader material and about the time I finish, we are slowing into the zone. 


I have been present for several Grand Slams and even a couple Super Slams and know how hard those were to “accomplish”, in fact the better term might be “manufacture” because they generally require and overhaul of the days fishing plans.  As Travis hops up on the poling deck I hear “And there they are!” come drifting through the humid airwaves.  Sure the hell enough, a small pod of them are rolling about 50 yards upwind of us. 

Travis polls hard to get us up there, Bob gets on deck and Travis gently turns the boat.  The fish are moving away from us and are still up wind so Bob pushes a cast to the left and a tad behind them.  Myself I have just popped my 10th Pink Raddler of the early day because I know there is no way in hell this is going to happen so I am relaxing the best I can, glass half empty state of mind in an attempt to reverse will this Grand Slam. 


Tarpon have steered left a bit, Bob’s second cast is about the same as the first but fish are in a more favorable position, 2nd strip one peels off the group to follow and follow fast.  Not 2 seconds later and Bob is tight to what might be a first for Abaco.  Travis anchor the boat with the push pole, hops off the platform and again paces albeit with a little more real estate than last time.  As the fish tires, Travis hops in and waits for Bob to surf this tarpon to him.  It comes in fast, turns, rolls and wraps its tail around the leader and sprints out another 20 yards and I crap my pants.  None of us have taken a breath in something about five minutes either…

Bob leans in, Travis dives and comes up with a tarpon tail in his hands…Grand Slam complete at 12:33 in the afternoon, in exactly 7 casts!  I try to explain to Bob how incredibly difficult this is to accomplish but in the moment, it seemed about as easy as popping the top on our next beer…pretty damn easy!


Moments later one of the other guides comes around the corner asking what is up, “We could hear you way over there man!”  We simply explained Bob had landed his first tarpon, no mention of the GS or the permit.  In the process of playing the tarpon we had cooked up a little skit to take place back at the lodge.  Christian was going to wonder why in the hell we were back to the lodge so early.  Bob and Travis were going to get in a fight at the lodge bar just to see how Christiaan would handle it.  Buffs up over all our faces to conceal our ear adjoining grins, Bob yells at Travis and throws a handful of chips at him, Travis displays the bird and with a brief pause they then hug and spill the beans.   A fairly festive dinner atmosphere that evening.

Fast forward two days, Bob and I are on the boat together again, still talking about his GS, we are giving each other crap about our casting, blowing bonefish and letting them run us into the mangroves when yet another ray and permit team show up.  First cast, permit on and we are hitting the replay button.   Going through my mind is the idea of not just another GS in the same week but I landed my bonefish and permit on the same fly so I am thinking, “What if I got the tarpon on the same fly, a same fly GS??!!” 


Bob says, “Get the slam first and then go back and see if you can get a second tarpon on the same fly.”  Makes sense but the reality in my head is, yet again, how few of these happen for anglers, but it was so easy 2 days ago.  As I let that thought go the very next one is how easy this is appearing because look,  there are 3 tarpon swimming along the mangroves! 

Well as it turns out, 5 eats later my GS wasn’t meant to be and I am completely fine with it.  I generally don’t fish much on my hosted trips anyway and the fact that I had been blessed with a permit in the Bahamas and that Bob had let me hold the deck for the rest of the day was awesome enough.   Back to the lodge for some McCoy enhanced Bahama Mama’s.

Ok, now with the excitement out of the way there are some other fantastic attributes to Abaco Lodge and fly fishing the Bahamas I have not necessarily felt when angling in other parts of the Caribbean.  While some are due in part to location, others are controls and this place has made the decision to capitalize on them.  Not all are as important to some anglers while incredibly so to other so I want to touch on each.


First was the food.  Nothing short of spectacular cuisine was served on this trip down to the lunches made for the boat each day. 

Awaking to a pot of freshly brewed coffee, Lindy would come around and ask each of us for our breakfast order.  Tim and Eric would go with oatmeal, fresh fruit and juice, the route I should have gone but I couldn’t turn down a custom breakfast burrito of EXTRA bacon, eggs, “poe”, “toe” and “avo” with sauteed shrooms.  How on earth was I to choose oatmeal over this?  I simply don’t possess the will power to do so. 

Lunch was a full menu of items to choose from basically allowing us to select our given protein, carb and beverage in presentation and in quantity.  Should I have wanted 5 grilled chicken sandwiches on ciabbata with 24 different beverages and fruit salad, it would have been there I am sure of it.  Each day a “special” was offered for lunch which one day was a fresh conch salad wrap.  Yeah, I’ll take two of those please!


Arriving back at the lodge about 4pm each day, the ever so lovely Velma greets us with a cold wash cloth for our faces and her enchanting smile and contagious laugh.   Appetite present or not, after dropping off rods and heading to the room to change we were regaled with everything from Conch Seviche to deep fried conch, BBQ Pork nibbles to I can’t remember what else.  All I remember is every time something left the kitchen, I wanted to eat all of it but had to restrain as I knew dinner was going to be off the chart.  Sid, you are an incredible chef and we were fortunate to have your meals each day.  Thank you!

Off the chart it was.  Dinners are where all focus is as far as food goes.  Fishing is done for the day, local libations have softened the edges of a tough day or embellish a great one.  Sun is going down to a gorgeous sunset, some wonderful red wine warbles it way into our glasses and then it lands; a delectable sight of fresh caught lobster tail spit atop homemade potatoes and adorned with small greens.  Had this been a family style dinner, I would have devoured 5 or 6 of these as they were prepared to perfection and had I asked, there would likely have been more but everything was perfect.  Chatter had all but stopped as everyone savored the meal in front of us.  Another glass of wine to top it off and then dessert. 


Ranging from homemade ice cream to flan and my personal favorite the Key Lime pie served in just the right proportions to close the curtains on everyone.  Bed time, a brief pause to digest food and thought of fishing past and future as well as my burrito coming in a mere 7 hours, I can hardly wait.

Speaking of bedtime, in all of my travels, it is quite rare to have a queen sized poster bed, with pillow more comfortable than my own at home, sheeted with fine cotton, A/C all within a private room with own bathroom and shower.  Nothing shared here and no up charge for single occupancy rooms.  In all honesty, I didn’t want to get up in the morning.  Even alone, I would have gladly taken a nice cup of coffee, read a book and just watched the pink sky evolve but alas, fishing awaits.  Photos to be taken, burritos to eat and Grand Slams to attain, because they are so easy here!!


Abaco Lodge was also fully set with a small fly shop and rental fleet of rods and reels for each species we would target.  This is music to my ears even as a shop owner.  This is a potential long winded topic so I will keep it short and sweet.  New Sage X and Salt rods with Sage reels were strung up and ready for anything we would target, no extra charge!  As a shop owner, I see this is as an asset to my business where most wouldn’t. 

I always bring extra rods/reels/lines for my clients in case the inevitable occurs in form of lost luggage, ceiling fans, dumbell eyed flies or even a fish.  This allows clients to come on this trip even if new to the sport and not being pressed into purchasing 2-3 rods and reels just to join this adventure.   I can’t always bring enough so basically the lodge has my back as host and I really appreciate this as a partner in business.  After a trip like this, those who were new will eventually buy their complimentary rods and reels.  Doesn’t have to happen all at once.


As far as the fishing grounds go, I don’t believe I fished the same flat twice the entire week with only one exception and that was when trying to get our second tarpon and even then, it was very brief.  Go beyond this and as we meandered our way to the flats we did fish, there were tons we never stopped at and my question is always the same of local guides, “Why don’t we fish there?”  Answer in this area was, “We certainly could, want to?”  I love this because it means there isn’t constant pressure on flats and the result are fish eager to chow on flies so all you have to do is deliver them.

The one things I always love doing is walking in pursuit of my fish, especially on the flats.  There is the opportunity to do this here but I personally didn’t do any, we were on the skiff the entire time.  So if you do head here, as for wade if that is what you desire doing.

Finally, I have fished with hundreds of guides all over the world and as I have found elsewhere in the Bahamas and exemplified here are very happy, good natured, experienced guides eager to find you fish.  Freddy, Travis, Paul, Trevor and Mike all had personalities of their own, some quiet and some boisterous but all a pleasure to spend a day on the water with. 


In closing this journal entry, knowing what I have coming in the next 18 months as far as travel goes, this was such a fabulous trip in so many ways.  Obviously what I covered explains the nuts and bolts of the experience but the nuance and flow to the trip was as good as it could have been.  Everyone was compatible in the group, some were new which is always a little nerve wracking but each had common threads to chat about during the days on the boat and evenings at happy hour.  New saltwater fly anglers caught fish every day which meant confidence was boosted which is a hope of mine for every angler and you could see it as the week progressed.

So many of the “little things” I tend to look back on on trips that if they had been there would have really made for a wonderful experience and nearly all those “little things” were taken care of here without having to say a word.

Rarely do I immediately yearn to around and return someplace but this is an exception for me, I just can’t get out of my head those grabby permit.  Feel like I need to make sure I wasn’t dreaming this whole thing and always an indication of a location that truly cares is when you know you will stay in touch with staff as friends afterwards and are sad to leave them. 

Thank you for reading, please be in touch if I can answer any questions and thanks again to Abaco Lodge and their staff. 

Would we return to Abaco Lodge — ABSOLUTELY!

A few more images to round out the report…

A nice bonefish from one of the many sandy flats.

Brilliant coloration of a tarpon face.

The fleet under a clear night sky, always fun to shoot.

Serious weather to contend with for a day or so on this trip.

Freddie, not much more need be said!

Tan, the only color I believe you really need!

Why they call it tailing…a lone cruiser near the beach.

Boom!  2 all last season and we landed two this week.

Filed Under: Emerald Water Anglers Tagged With: Abaco Lodge, Bahamas, bonefish, Dave McCoy Photography, destination travel, Emerald Water Anglers, fishing report, flats fishing, fly fishing travel, Grand Slam, Nervous Waters, permit, tarpon, Travel Journal, tropical fly fishing, underwater photography

Travel Journal: Greenland Fly Fishing

August 18, 2017 by adminewa 2 Comments


Fly fishing whether I really want to admit it or not is embedded in my DNA.  My doctor actually found it on my DNA ladder when doing a blood test on me a couple years ago, so I may as well embrace it, it isn’t going anywhere.  Just so happens while I know the previous statement isn’t necessarily scientifically true, I can feel it within me and I know adventure adjoins fly fishing to make up a significant part of my soul.   Watching Marlin Perkins growing up created a yearning to see far off locales and somewhere, somehow in the past 20 years I have been fortunate enough to construct a life style allowing me to combine both.


This last escapade put a check mark on a place I have wanted to see for decades if for no other reason than to see the look on peoples face when you say “Greenland.”  Yes, we went to Greenland fly fishing on the southern tip for native Arctic Char and I would GLADLY share the name of the rivers with you if they only had names, they don’t.  In fact when you are fishing them, it feels a bit like this is only a stream this year, next year maybe it isn’t here due to lake levels, shifting ice and general change in topography.  More than likely they will be there again but when it takes what it takes to get to this place, the utter lack of human presence or evidence of such make you wonder.  I believe wondering is healthy for the mind…


About 2 hours into the flight from Reykjavik the first glimpse of the big island comes into view…icebergs litter the coastal water and surrounding smaller islands.  Around the entire perimeter Greenland, which I didn’t realize until taking a closer loo, are hundreds, maybe thousands of tiny islands carved by glaciers.  They create a wonderful introduction to the “ice cap” we are about to fly over.  Until you see this in person, nothing on television, in a movie or described in words will do it justice.  Multi thousand foot tall peaks emerge from the sea of ice to show just their tip tops and this view goes on as far as you can see from 25,000 feet.  How about that, at least I can say I tried…


Landing in Narsarsuaq the intimidation and wonder factor sets in.  First is I can’t believe I am standing on Greenland within sight of some of the worlds largest and oldest glaciers.  An unreal sensation, almost giddy for me set my mood for the rest of the week and beyond.  Second is now how do we get to the lodge from here as the road ends on a dock in one direction and at the airport runway in the other, almost being able to see both ends standing in one place.  Every single person at the airport is either a photographer/videographer, explorer or Inuit.  Not coming here to watch television and gain weight…though more on this in a bit!

Sharing a ride to the dock with a few other anglers going to another location in the region we hop on a boat for our 3 hour plus boat ride through the fjords, dodging icebergs and leaving all signs of civilization behind.  That itch I have found only one remedy for is being satiated, may the adventure begin! 


I look at my watch, the sun feels as though its intensity is not quite what it was and sure enough, it is almost 11pm, sun is still up, hungry, tired, nearly two 32 gig cards filled with icebergs and one small village we turn a corner and voila, there is the lodge.  Hunger helps me off the boat hoping like nothing they have something for us and OMG do they!  Locally sourced carrots, potatoes and mushrooms foraged from the area, some Char sashimi and reindeer flank steak.  Throw in for good measure a closely guarded recipe of sweet mustard sauce, home made full grain breads and jam with a Tuborg (Greenland beer) and it is all I can do not to pass out before my head hits the pillow, punch my card, I am out!


Cabins at the lodge are unreal considering where we are and just “wondering” what it might have taken to bring the materials necessary to this location.  Water view from the porch, comfortable down comforters on each bed with down pillows, table with just enough light to make a quick journal entry and most importantly, just upwind of where the AM coffee is freshly brewed.  I have to believe the 4 of us, the only 4 in camp beside the staff were put right here in these two cabins for what has to be a coincidental reason… 


The sun dipped for about 3 hours or so at best, not quite ever dark but dim.  Enough for the local residents to figure out new blood was in camp, on goes the mosquito repellent and off for a visit to the lieu, morning snapshot of the view and in for coffee.  In my twisted mind I fall to that old joke about how the Native American kid got his name…first thing his parents saw when they stepped out of the tent after he was born…born here there would be a considerable number of people named OMG, WOW or maybe even HOLY S–T!  It is just amazing and this comes from having seen a fair share of views around the world!


Freshly rested my mind slants ever so slightly towards fishing, it is what actually brought me to this incredible location.  That long slender and what strong also fragile piece of graphite has once again put me in a place I am humbled to be.  As hard as I try, staring at the fjord in front of the lodge, I am hoping what I see is being seen by my wife and daughter simultaneously.  Nothing resembling WiFi here so it would have to be through a deeper connection, a stronger one founded on relationships as solid and soulful as possible.  Before I begin to get homesick I grab rod and reel, pull out the waders and boots and assemble slowly, with deliberation what will be my secondary tool for the next week while here in Greenland fly fishing.


Bobo, our camp host and a person with more colorful stories from the region and the world says over coffee, “Let’s take it easy today, get your feet wet but not push it too hard today.”  This guy is speaking my language, I just want to take it all in, not rush past anything if possible.  We enjoy a very hearty breakfast of eggs, reindeer sausage and more scrumptious home made bread, look over a map of this part of Greenland and retrace our path to get here, we are really out here!  As I look over a map of the region and greater Greenland, I wonder how in the world Arni made the decision to put the lodge HERE…


When I began talking about this trip, my good friend Johann who worked for Angling Club Lax-a at the time told me the fishing here would be ridiculous, almost boring if that is possible.  With these comments still resting in the back of my mind, we pack our gear, get on the boat and head out to the first location to present our first flies to fish in Greenland. 


After being dropped off, we hiked a scenic route to the stream and as it turns out, the sales pitch was pure, as truthful as any I have ever paid attention to.  This small unnamed stream connecting a lake to the sea was so full of native Arctic Char, the bottom was black in places.   This was literally like shooting fish in a barrel and we all took our shots!  Quickly realizing catching wasn’t going to be an issue, I relocated to higher ground and began trying to spot larger fish to help the others target them among the masses. 


The following few days we spend chasing cod in the fjords around the lodge, driving the small boat right up to the base of where the main glacier touches the sea and visiting the a small village about 45 minutes by boat from the lodge.  On our way to the village, we are enjoying our ride when Bobo slows the boat a bit and THUD, we hit an iceberg! 


We all freak out for a moment, wondering if the boat is going to make like the Titanic when Bobo grabs an ice pick, a glove and begins striking away at the smaller pieces of the berg surrounding the boat.  We realize he is grabbing ice for the cooler and to enhance our evening libations back at the lodge after our day of fishing.  OK then, iceberg “cubes” in the Gin and Tonic…it is about all I and the rest of our team can think about all day. 


As Marilyn is landing a fish, she yells over to John, “Looking forward to those chunks of ice in my glass here soon!”  John hooks up mid sentence with a smile and nod.  We are having a fine last day in Greenland!


Back at the lodge, as we enjoy maybe the finest tenderloin of freshly grilled reindeer I have ever tasted period, Andreas and Bear start a big bonfire in the pit over looking the small bay.  It is a placid evening, mosquitoes seems to be allowing us a small respite from their frequent facial visits.  Sipping a little Icelandic brown water with Greenland ice, watching the sun slowing crest the horizon I still can’t believe I am sitting in Greenland…literally can’t wait to return!


Small stream joining one of the lakes to the sea allowing the Char access to their spawning grounds.


Chrome bright and native, this Arctic Char was quite willing to take a fly.


Wild flower in full bloom for a short period of time colorfully speckled around the hillsides surrounding the small streams.


From a high vantage point, spotting the larger Char in the gin clear water.


Greenland fly fishing and coming tight in the cold saltwater near the face of the main ice cap glacier.

Would we return to Greenland — Possibly

Lodging – fantastic
Remoteness – fantastic
Food – OFF THE CHART
Fishing – too easy and this is the issue, know this sounds impossible but it was so easy (50+ fish a day per person) it would be boring for a full week…otherwise, LOVE this place!


Filed Under: Emerald Water Anglers Tagged With: Angling Club Lax-a, arctic char, Dave McCoy Photography, Emerald Water Anglers, fly fishing outfitter, fly fishing travel, fly fishing travel experts, glacier, Greenland fly fishing, hosted fly fishing, icebergs, Iceland, Seattle, travel blog, Washington

Travel Journal: Sudan & Oman – GT’s and Triggers

May 26, 2017 by adminewa 1 Comment


For over 20 years, as a company we have always sought the road less traveled when it comes to our sport.  Whether this is local fly fishing on the small streams or a different take on how to approach old favorites like the Yakima and our steelhead rivers, it is important to us to create memories with our trips from local to far flung locales like this one.

We have been working with and become friends with the guys at Tourette Fishing out of South Africa for about 10 years now and over the past few have been paying close attention to the trips they have been guiding on the other side of the globe.  A few years ago, one in particular caught our attention, fly fishing for Giant Trevally and Triggerfish in the Red Sea off the coast of Sudan…yep, Sudan!


A little over a year ago Dave McCoy, owner of Emerald Water Anglers assembled a group of young sticks to make the jaunt and as it turned out, was a good thing this group was hungry because it warranted fearless fly fishing and skills with the 12wt most other trips simply do not ask of its participants.  In a nutshell, we like these types of trips and of all we have done globally which are considerable this was the most demanding and hence rewarding…period!

So we depart Seattle, 14 hours direct on Emirates to Dubai for a few days to acclimate to the new 10 hour time difference and spend a couple days fishing in Dubai and taking a short overnight trip to Oman to pursue Queenfish, GT’s, Dorado and anything else an fly angler might find in the cobalt waters of the Persian Gulf region.  It is a striking backdrop to spend a day fly fishing against and the fishing is terrific as our group lands the aforementioned species as well as Kingfish and Barracuda. 


A warm up session in Oman is in order so we schedule an overnight trip up to tease up a bunch of different species and get our 12 weight arms ready for what is come.  Tons of border crossings and a late arrival leave us pretty well whipped for the next day before we even start.  The instructions from the captains are to drink as much water as you can through the day to stay hydrated.  Collectively we drink well over 40 bottles of water and between 6 of us only take one leak through the entire day, it is that hot and hucking big rods and big flies only exacerbates the situation.


After a half day chasing Queenies in the bay below this epic Dubai skyline, it is time to take in a few more of the city sights such as ripping some turns on the indoor ski hill at the mall and visiting the tallest building in the world.  Our guides and captains were Nick and Damon from Ocean Active Fly in Dubai and are as professional as you will find, know their water and also where to locate a non virgin drink in a dry country!  Dubai and the rest of the Arab states are dry so you must seek out your favorite apre fishing beverage of which we landed ourselves at the incomparable Bar at Pierchic under the iconic Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Hotel…we will take it as a final send off into the unknown of Sudan where we head early tomorrow AM.


After a short flight from Dubai to Port of Sudan, we board our bus for the 3 hour drive to the port where we board the Scuba Libre, a modest 60ft catamaran which we will call home for the next week as we cruise the northern coast of Sudan along the Nubian Desert in search of Giant Trevally, Triggers, Bumpies and if lucky maybe an Indo Permit or Napolean Wrasse.  Either way, this is going to be an adventure beyond any we have a previously experienced with a fly rod.


First night on the boat is the typical familiarization process of getting to know the guides, guides seeing how inept everyone is going to be and setting up lines, rods, leaders and flies for what they know is an epic battle soon to come. 


We have good light the first couple days allowing some to rack up some species counts while others get their first taste of what GT’s bring in this neighborhood which amounts to the local thug.  These fish rule their water and everyone knows it including the humans.  By end of day two, each has had their proverbial and literal asses handed to them shredding fly lines, breaking a rod or two and blowing up a couple of drags on reels. 


It should be known, most reels are intended to “slow” fish down, help to tire them to a point of being landed.  Here, that is not a luxury afforded the fly angler.  Fishing on small flats or at the edge of the reef means that fish, that mere 60-80 pound freight train must stop NOW or all is likely lost.  So we are asking our reels to stop these fish almost on a dime, most drags are not intended to do this and it shows as several companies reels fail and fail quick and in spectacular fashion.  When you loop 150 pound test to your fly line to 75 pound gel spun and point at these beasts with a drag cranked to the stopping point, something is going to give and it is a toss up as to where the failure will occur.  Despite efforts by the talented guides to circumvent the inevitable we still pace through fly lines each day, shredding them on the coral walls below.


The end of every day is riddled with stories unlike any of us well traveled anglers have lived before.  Challenges met with failure left and right and coming from every possible direction.  Weather was one major factor which took this from an advanced angler trip to what was termed Heavy Metal or full contact sport of fly fishing.  Low light forced us into fishing situations where we are chest deep on the edge knowing full well a hook up means a swim if any hope at all is going to bring the fish to hand.


As the week progresses, weather has followed us from wetter and windier parts of the world.  The Nubian receives about 2 inches of rain annually and we brought it!  With it came thunder, lightning and our first full on dust storm.  We watched as it formed on land, miles from us, the dust elevating and swirling and moving across the water in our direction like a swarm.  Not knowing what to expect we just sit tight on a small reef in the middle of the Red Sea as it engulfs us.  At one point all land was invisible, no way for our boat to find us so we had to just sit it out.  Slowing the world began to show itself again and we eventually are retrieved only to have another dust storm brew and over take us yet again.


Eventually it happens for most of us on the trip, shaking hands with both Triggers and GT’s and for those with the first time experience of pursuing these giants they are truly changed individuals.  Focused on GT and GT only for some time to come for all future exotic travel.  Tahiti, Fiji, Christmas Island, Seychelles and India immediately spring to mind each evening as we talk ourselves off the cliff of addiction to these fish. 


Legs beat up and still in slow bleeds from the week we reluctantly come back from our last day on the water with mixed emotions.  Having been taken to school on so man occasions some are ready to whimper home and lick wounds, well, all of us are actually but we are also enlightened and ready to put ourselves in harms/GT’s way yet again and soon.


Dinner becomes a release event where we make every effort to dry the boat, awarding GT Angler of the week to one of our team.  As stories are told yet again with new twists and exuberance Stu, one of our South African guides shaves the outline of a GT into the winners chest hair as a parting gift and memory. 

Equipment of all forms exhausted, bodies, cameras and fishing equipment are ready for a vacation.  More images below and hopefully you find yourself on our next adventure with us, thanks for reading.

Tom Paulson gets exploded upon…

Exhausted team watches a few last casts at sunset…

Some local Nubian residents…

Chad Briggs with a beautiful Bluefin Trevally…

Filed Under: Emerald Water Anglers Tagged With: adventure travel, Emerald Water Anglers, fishing reports, fly fishing travel, giant trevally, Oman, saltwater, Sudan, Travel Journal, Triggerfish, tropical

Cuba Libre – Hosted Travel Video – 2016

February 8, 2017 by adminewa Leave a Comment

Is the winter weather bringing you down?  Dreaming of those warm weather destinations?  Let’s see if this might help.  

Call the store today to find out more about some of our current travel destinations.

Filed Under: Emerald Water Anglers Tagged With: adventure travel, bonefish, cuba, Dave McCoy, Emerald Water Anglers, flats, fly fishing travel, Havana, permit, tarpon, tropical

Travel Journal: Tanzania – Tigerfish

April 13, 2016 by adminewa Leave a Comment

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Fly fishing travel has become my newest passion within the industry.  It sounds cliche but simply learning to fly fish and having the means to propel yourself where a fly rod could lead you is endless.  My imagination begins to live an alternate life as I picture myself in every possible situation from chest deep in jungle waters landing a golden dorado to praying a school of 80lb plus GT’s don’t take me out at the knees as they scream across a tropical flat in the Indian Ocean.  On occasion the ultimate dry fly presentation to a trout sneaks its way in and then the culture of these surrounding trips takes me off on a tangent, sealing the deal.  I must do, see, flat out experience more!

One of the latest on this was a dream trip to the east coast of Africa in pursuit of a species that has been atop my must do list for over a decade.  Fortunately I have spent the past 20 years in this sport creating new, legit friendships through this machine we call social media.  On a short notice whim, Keith Clover of Tourette Fishing in Africa sent out an invitation I couldn’t pass up…come see the holy grail of tigerfish as our friend and guest.  Well, allow me just a second or two to think this over meaning let me make sure I have nothing going on around it.  Nope, nada, calendar is clear or has just been cleared, looks like I am Africa bound!

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While this is a fly fishing trip as nearly all my travels are anymore, I feel it is essential to include some degree of cultural immersion into these trips.  I simply can’t imagine not meeting the people, seeing how they live, eating their food, learning just a small tidbit of their language and hearing their history.  It is one thing to read this in a book or watch on television but to live it first hand, nothing will shape you more than this.  At the end of nearly every fishing trip I have ever been on, the most quickly told and rarely revisited stories are of the fish caught but rather the thrills of getting there, close calls in land, air and water based vehicles or close encounters with wildlife or other unexpected interactions.  THIS is why it is called adventure travel!

Catch a plane from Seattle straight to Amsterdam where I spend a night near the Van Gogh Museum which also happens to be the Vogue Night Out on the same block as my hotel.  So 6ft tall female models are everywhere, each boutique is serving up free drinks with a live D.J. and basically I could go home now consider this trip a success but no, I grab a space at the bar next to a fashion icon, share a few laughs, pay up and head onto the packed street with camera in hand to see where the evenings activities will take me.  I return to the hotel about 5am, catch an hour of sleep then up and back to the airport for my 8 hour flight to Dar Salaam and feeling pretty good about it.

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I arrive in Dar late, enough time to meet my driver and head to the hotel, check in and hit the bed but had to sample a few African beers first.  Rising early I catch my first glimpse of the Indian Ocean in daylight and while I know other dream destinations lie amid those waters, I am here for another, one of freshwater sorts and fish bearing wicked sets of teeth!

Off to catch the small charter flight to fish camp and meet the rest of the anglers joining me for the week.  One of my favorite aspects in traveling to far off locations is the methods of travel used to get there.  Camels, horses, ox carts, rickshaws, helicopters, boats held together by duct tape and in this case a comfortable 4 seat Cessna.  As we fly for hours, the landscape is splattered with small fires, a few large rivers and small settlements I suppose are reached by some sort of road though some don’t seem to have one coming in or leaving, makes me wonder what those people do, how fun it would be to meet them.

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To my surprise I am sharing the week with a gentleman named Hakan from Sweden, gem of a guy who has fished all over the world as well.  I tell Hakan I am keen to catch a few tigers but I really want to photograph the trip so he should be prepared to fish a lot.  Hakan insists I fish as much as he so we can already see where this is going…Greg Ghaui our guide will have to referee this match the entire week.  The plane begins to drop in altitude and off in the distance is a strip of land resembling something I have landed on before…yep, that is our airstrip.  A couple of well outfitted Land Rovers driven by game guides and trackers from the camp, we have arrived at the Rujudji Camp!

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A welcome song from the staff is always a hearth warming way to arrive at any lodge or camp.  Greetings and a drink, unload bags and check into our very comfortable accommodations for the first half of the week.  WAY nicer than I had ever expected, going to be living quite comfortably here especially with only a couple of us in camp.

Hakan and I begin the diagnostic of piecing together equipment for the fishing aspect of the trip.  Personally I try not to over think or over pack for these trips.  I find it far too easy to bring the kitchen sink and everything surrounding it only to realize a fork and spatula would have sufficed.  It is big flies tied to 40lb wire for these fish and knowing they reach upwards of 25lbs I choose my new Winston B3+ 10wt.  Nothing like tossing a 10wt around as if on the Madison during a caddis hatch, am sure my arm will hold up fine!

We hop in the boat with Greg for the afternoon, Hakan and I are chomping at the bit for our first encounter with a tigerfish and thankfully we are introduced shortly after our first stop.  Nice work Greg and Hakan, shutters fly, beers are cracked and we can all now relax…the ice has been broken!

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So enough about the fishing, let’s get to the more exciting part of what it is like to fly fish knowing around every corner there could be a lion, elephant, crocodile or hippo.  It makes focusing very difficult at times.  Greg knew pretty well where the hippo’s would be as we came through the various parts of the river.  Typically they would be visible from down stream as they were curious as to what we were doing.  Heads up and snorting as we fished our way their direction we would reel in our flies and sit in the bottom of the boat then motor as fast as possible through their section of the river.  The two dangers here are one of them coming up for air under our boat as we motor over them and the other is ending up in the water with them if they did.  Forget the croc’s, pretty sure I could take one of those hippo is another story.

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Greg was always on the look out for them as we motored along just in case as we did on occasion see them in different locations at times.  At first crocodile’s were an exciting thing to see but then you see so many of them in a single day, especially being the only boat on the water that they become a bit like seeing sea gull’s on a river around here.  They would every now and then launch themselves off a high bank opposite of where you were looking and it would startle you for sure till you realized, oh just another croc.

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Between the engagements with wildlife the fly fishing was a blast.  As one might expect these Tigerfish are top predators in their home waters and act as such.  Nearly every one of the attributes one would want from any fish are present.  Aggressive takes, spectacular jumps and then a toothy smile upon landing them.  We didn’t have clear water and I am not sure it would ever be clear enough to sight cast for them here but it might be possible.  I tried fishing for a spell with a surface fly but after watching Hakan catch fish after fish after fish, I threw in the towel and went with one of my heavy tuna flies on a floating line which worked exceptionally well.  Had I had the energy to do so, probably should have gone back to the surface fly in the late evening as they were, like many other species of fish, extremely active in low light especially in a couple of places where the water was moving quickly and was fairly shallow.  Hind sight sucks!

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Just as we become quite comfortable at the first camp, it is time to pack up and head across the game reserve to a more remote camp for the rest of the trip.  We hop back in the Toyota’s for our “ferry” ride across the river.  I want one of these vehicles so bad, would look like such a bad ass driving around Seattle in one of these!  Our ferry is a thoughtfully woven together mix of empty oil barrels, wood planks and thick branches run across the river by a small boat while on a cable strung across the river…o.k., I assume we aren’t the first and when in Rome or the African bush.

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When you come to Africa, you just inherently expect or hope to see the standard wildlife associated with this continent.  Lions, giraffes, elephants, hippo, crocodile, cheetah, water buffalo and so on.  In some parts of the continent these animals are protected and are very easily visible, maybe too much so according to Greg and others, they become so accustomed to people and cars they are almost like pets.  Here on this game quadrant they are a little afraid of humans as they are capable of being hunted so glimpses of them are at times quite rare.  Hakan and I are hopeful but not holding our breath as we realize the size of the game reserve and our very small presence in it.

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As luck would have it, we come over a small rise and BOOM, on the road is a herd of elephants!  Driver shuts down the engine and stops, rolling silently forward to get a bit closer.  The herd stops and the big males and females get trunks in the air in an effort to catch our scent.  I hope out of the car camera in hand and snap off a few quick shots before they are off and running.  We get about 5 good minutes of just watching them stand and then disappear into the dusty horizon.  So brilliant, Hakan and I pretty much agree that made the trip right there.

We arrive at our new camp which has literally been carved out of the bush.  Rather than plus cabins we are staying in bush tents which here again, want to bring one of these home for myself and plop it on a piece of property somewhere, I could live in one of these no problem.  Comfortable bed, separate room for the bathroom and shower and a view of the river…I would just have to become single again, not sure my wife would completely go for it but am positive my daughter would.

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Going down my shot list for the trip, I let Greg know that Keith had promised me monkey’s in trees, some exotic birds, a lion and some water buffalo with maybe some orangutans thrown in.  Just a friendly reminder!  Birds are everywhere, of all shapes and sizes.  Eagle, King Fisher, Stork, Heron and so on, any birder would have a great time tracking the wide variety of species we see daily.  My daughter being quite fond of them, I am trying to capture what I can and again luck is one my side.  As we come around a corner early in the AM we come across a giant stork just lifting off…so awesome.

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Greg casually keeps track of everything I have mentioned I would like to see or experience on the trip, basically everything I want to capture images of and as we have moved through the week he has brilliantly given a heads up with as much notice as possible to what might be coming around the next bend.  “We often see monkey’s down this way.” he says, might want to keep an eye out for them.  Sure enough, several trees begin thrashing as if a giant was trying to shake the leaves off it.  The boat slows and several trees full of inquisitive monkey’s begin playing and chasing each other around.  One or two of them come out to the end of the branches and fake charge us, making us laugh out loud, they are so cute these curious little guys.  We drop about 20 minutes just watching them go from tree to tree, time well spent.

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Saving the best for last we spend our last day as far up river as the boat can go.  As we approach shore I ask Greg if it makes sense that as humans being well down the food chain and only armed with a single machete to get out on land and walk up river.  He seems to be alright with it and he is the guide so here we go.  As they move into the dry season, locals burn the grass to help facilitate fresh grass growth so as we hike, the bush is on fire around us.  At first quite unnerving but as we walk among the small flames it is obvious the grass burns fast and then the flames are gone.

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Beyond here we take to foot and hike up stream to one of the most beautiful places I have ever cast a fly.  Water is coming off the side of a mountain from every direction.  Even as a photographer, it is nearly impossible to capture this place from ground level and do any justice to it.  It is simply incredible with waterfalls and parts of the river flowing through the trees, I could spend way more time here than we we have unfortunately.  It is rare that I care too much about myself being in a photo but in this case, I ask Greg to snap a few with my camera because I am blown away!

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Hakan has put in a request of his own with Greg, nothing like waiting until the last moment.  “I would like to see a 20 pound Tigerfish if possible.”  Greg takes this in stride and continues to guide us through the myriad of small pools and runs in this stretch of the river.  You know, we only have a few hours of fishing left, anything can happen.  Sometimes you just have to not care, take what comes and move through time and experience accepting the fate of events mostly out of anyone’s control.  By doing so I believe you almost invite serendipitous interactions with those things you hope for.  Hakan gets a Tiger nearing 20 pounds and is ecstatic, the ride home is one of Kilimanjaro beers and quiet observance of what has been our home and our new roommates for the past week.  Croc roll off the sandy banks, a wild boar eats some grass, some monkeys chase around the trees and a group of hippo provide us with one last good bye snort.

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My last request is a clear night to shoot our dinner on the beach.  As the clouds roll in and we hear thunder in the distance, I am not holding out much hope.  This trip has been nothing short of amazing.  Exceeded expectations in every respect.  Greg and Hakan are now friends I hope to see again either in Africa or somewhere else on the planet.  I have witnessed enough to come back home and be an ambassador to this region and these fish.  Grateful for time spent with great people in an amazing location.

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Dinner turns out to be under the stars, on the beach with just myself, Greg and Hakan, the 3 amigos.  We share a bottle of whiskey Hakan had saved for just this occasion and revisit the week.  Perfect ending to this adventure.  Tomorrow we climb on the Land Cruiser enroute to the ferry back to base camp.  Not 500 feet before the ferry it all comes together.  Off in the distance you can see the herd of elephants, in the foreground is Hakan’s last request, the herd of water buffalo and with the engine off, we could hear a lion yawning out a roar.  One last evening with the staff then on a small plane to catch a couple bigger ones to our respective homes.  I awake about 6am to the sound of elephants and the lion across the river knowing he has the herd of water buffalo in his sights, the same herd we came across on our way to the ferry yesterday.

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Would we return to Tourette and Tanzania — ABSOLUTELY!

Filed Under: Emerald Water Anglers Tagged With: Africa, Dave McCoy Photography, elephants, Emerald Water Anglers, fly fishing travel, lion, monkey, safari, Seattle, Tanzania, Tigerfish, Tourette Fishing, travel blog, travel experts, Travel Journal, Washington

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